We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.
|Name||Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics|
|Publisher||University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics|
- Breaking waves
- Multiphase beach dynamics
- Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up
Bokhove, O., van der Horn, B., van der Horn, AB., van der Meer, R. M.
, Zweers, W., & Thornton, A. R.
(2012). Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach
. (Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics; No. 1976). Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics.