Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

Onno Bokhove; Bram van der Horn; Devaraj van der Meer; Wout Zweers; Anthony Thornton

Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

Onno Bokhove, Bram van der Horn, Devaraj van der Meer, Wout Zweers, Anthony Thornton

Physics of Fluids

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Abstract

We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

Original language	English
Place of Publication	Enschede
Publisher	University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
Number of pages	10
Publication status	Published - Feb 2012

Publication series

Name	Memorandum
Publisher	University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
No.	1976
ISSN (Print)	1874-4850

Keywords

Breaking waves
Multiphase beach dynamics
Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up

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title = "Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach",

abstract = "We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop {\textquoteleft}Hele-Shaw{\textquoteright} beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.",

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AU - Bokhove, Onno

AU - van der Horn, Bram

AU - van der Meer, Devaraj

AU - Zweers, Wout

AU - Thornton, Anthony

N1 - Shallow Flows Symposium

PY - 2012/2

Y1 - 2012/2

N2 - We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

AB - We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

KW - Breaking waves

KW - Multiphase beach dynamics

KW - Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up

M3 - Report

T3 - Memorandum

BT - Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

PB - University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics

CY - Enschede

ER -

Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

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