Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

Onno Bokhove, Bram van der Horn, Avraham/Bram van der Horn, Roger M. van der Meer, Wout Zweers, Anthony Richard Thornton

Research output: Book/ReportReportProfessional

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Abstract

We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.
Original languageUndefined
Place of PublicationEnschede
PublisherUniversity of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
Number of pages10
Publication statusPublished - Feb 2012

Publication series

NameMemorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics
PublisherUniversity of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
No.1976
ISSN (Print)1874-4850
ISSN (Electronic)1874-4850

Keywords

  • METIS-296039
  • Breaking waves
  • Multiphase beach dynamics
  • Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up
  • EWI-21539
  • IR-79723

Cite this

Bokhove, O., van der Horn, B., van der Horn, AB., van der Meer, R. M., Zweers, W., & Thornton, A. R. (2012). Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach. (Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics; No. 1976). Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics.
Bokhove, Onno ; van der Horn, Bram ; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram ; van der Meer, Roger M. ; Zweers, Wout ; Thornton, Anthony Richard. / Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach. Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2012. 10 p. (Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics; 1976).
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Bokhove, O, van der Horn, B, van der Horn, AB, van der Meer, RM, Zweers, W & Thornton, AR 2012, Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach. Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics, no. 1976, University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, Enschede.

Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach. / Bokhove, Onno; van der Horn, Bram; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram; van der Meer, Roger M.; Zweers, Wout; Thornton, Anthony Richard.

Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2012. 10 p. (Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics; No. 1976).

Research output: Book/ReportReportProfessional

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N2 - We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

AB - We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

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Bokhove O, van der Horn B, van der Horn AB, van der Meer RM, Zweers W, Thornton AR. Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach. Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2012. 10 p. (Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics; 1976).