Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

Onno Bokhove; Bram van der Horn; Avraham/Bram van der Horn; Roger M. van der Meer; Wout Zweers; Anthony Richard Thornton

Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

Onno Bokhove, Bram van der Horn, Avraham/Bram van der Horn, Roger M. van der Meer, Wout Zweers, Anthony Richard Thornton

Physics of Fluids

Research output: Book/Report › Report › Professional

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Abstract

We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

Original language	Undefined
Place of Publication	Enschede
Publisher	University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
Number of pages	10
Publication status	Published - Feb 2012

Publication series

Name	Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics
Publisher	University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
No.	1976
ISSN (Print)	1874-4850
ISSN (Electronic)	1874-4850

Keywords

METIS-296039
Breaking waves
Multiphase beach dynamics
Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up
EWI-21539
IR-79723

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Cite this

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title = "Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach",

abstract = "We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop {\textquoteleft}Hele-Shaw{\textquoteright} beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.",

keywords = "METIS-296039, Breaking waves, Multiphase beach dynamics, Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up, EWI-21539, IR-79723",

author = "Onno Bokhove and {van der Horn}, Bram and {van der Horn}, Avraham/Bram and {van der Meer}, {Roger M.} and Wout Zweers and Thornton, {Anthony Richard}",

note = "Shallow Flows Symposium",

year = "2012",

month = feb,

language = "Undefined",

series = "Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics",

publisher = "University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics",

number = "1976",

}

Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach. / Bokhove, Onno; van der Horn, Bram; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram; van der Meer, Roger M.; Zweers, Wout; Thornton, Anthony Richard.

Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2012. 10 p. (Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics; No. 1976).

Research output: Book/Report › Report › Professional

TY - BOOK

T1 - Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

AU - Bokhove, Onno

AU - van der Horn, Bram

AU - van der Horn, Avraham/Bram

AU - van der Meer, Roger M.

AU - Zweers, Wout

AU - Thornton, Anthony Richard

N1 - Shallow Flows Symposium

PY - 2012/2

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N2 - We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

AB - We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics.

KW - METIS-296039

KW - Breaking waves

KW - Multiphase beach dynamics

KW - Mathematical Hele-Shaw set-up

KW - EWI-21539

KW - IR-79723

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T3 - Memorandum / Department of Applied Mathematics

BT - Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

PB - University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics

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