Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves

Anthony Richard Thornton, Avraham/Bram van der Horn, Avraham van der Horn, Roger M. van der Meer, Wout Zweers, Onno Bokhove

Research output: Book/ReportReportProfessional

59 Downloads (Pure)

Abstract

Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw conguration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking on real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and sandbar formation are all classied. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach conguration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice.
Original languageUndefined
Place of PublicationEnschede
PublisherUniversity of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
Number of pages30
Publication statusPublished - Jan 2013

Publication series

NameMemorandum
PublisherDepartment of Applied Mathematics, University of Twente
No.2003
ISSN (Print)1874-4850
ISSN (Electronic)1874-4850

Keywords

  • Mathematical design
  • EWI-23044
  • Potential Flow and shallow water simulations
  • Laboratory experiments
  • IR-84384
  • METIS-296286
  • Hele-Shaw cell

Cite this

Thornton, A. R., van der Horn, AB., van der Horn, A., van der Meer, R. M., Zweers, W., & Bokhove, O. (2013). Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves. (Memorandum; No. 2003). Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics.
Thornton, Anthony Richard ; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram ; van der Horn, Avraham ; van der Meer, Roger M. ; Zweers, Wout ; Bokhove, Onno. / Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves. Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2013. 30 p. (Memorandum; 2003).
@book{c3d268bf0cc84d9a8199f820f5326e45,
title = "Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves",
abstract = "Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw conguration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking on real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and sandbar formation are all classied. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach conguration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice.",
keywords = "Mathematical design, EWI-23044, Potential Flow and shallow water simulations, Laboratory experiments, IR-84384, METIS-296286, Hele-Shaw cell",
author = "Thornton, {Anthony Richard} and {van der Horn}, Avraham/Bram and {van der Horn}, Avraham and {van der Meer}, {Roger M.} and Wout Zweers and Onno Bokhove",
note = "eemcs-eprint-23044",
year = "2013",
month = "1",
language = "Undefined",
series = "Memorandum",
publisher = "University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics",
number = "2003",

}

Thornton, AR, van der Horn, AB, van der Horn, A, van der Meer, RM, Zweers, W & Bokhove, O 2013, Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves. Memorandum, no. 2003, University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, Enschede.

Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves. / Thornton, Anthony Richard; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram; van der Horn, Avraham; van der Meer, Roger M.; Zweers, Wout; Bokhove, Onno.

Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2013. 30 p. (Memorandum; No. 2003).

Research output: Book/ReportReportProfessional

TY - BOOK

T1 - Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves

AU - Thornton, Anthony Richard

AU - van der Horn, Avraham/Bram

AU - van der Horn, Avraham

AU - van der Meer, Roger M.

AU - Zweers, Wout

AU - Bokhove, Onno

N1 - eemcs-eprint-23044

PY - 2013/1

Y1 - 2013/1

N2 - Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw conguration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking on real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and sandbar formation are all classied. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach conguration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice.

AB - Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw conguration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking on real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and sandbar formation are all classied. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach conguration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice.

KW - Mathematical design

KW - EWI-23044

KW - Potential Flow and shallow water simulations

KW - Laboratory experiments

KW - IR-84384

KW - METIS-296286

KW - Hele-Shaw cell

M3 - Report

T3 - Memorandum

BT - Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves

PB - University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics

CY - Enschede

ER -

Thornton AR, van der Horn AB, van der Horn A, van der Meer RM, Zweers W, Bokhove O. Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves. Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2013. 30 p. (Memorandum; 2003).