Hydrodynamics under large-scale waves breaking over a barred beach

Pietro Scandura, Dominic A. van der A, Joep van der Zanden, Carmelo Petrotta, Carla Faraci, James Cooper, Simon Clark, Bjarke Eltard Larsen, Stefan Carstensen, David Fuhrman, Ivan Caceres, Stuart J. McLelland, Guillaume Fromant, David Hurther, Gerben Ruessink, Joost Brinkkemper, Ming Li

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaperAcademic

20 Downloads (Pure)

Abstract

This paper shows preliminary results of experiments obtained in a large-scale wave flume under monochromatic waves plunging over a fixed bar. Velocity measurements were conducted using acoustic and optical instruments at 22 cross-shore locations ranging from the final part of the shoaling zone up to the inner surf zone. The measurements included the bottom boundary layer and the lower part of the water column and provided insights on the mean velocity distribution, turbulent velocity fluctuations and Reynolds stresses. The mean velocity is generally seaward directed. Magnitudes of the mean velocity are small in the shoaling region and increase above the bar crest, especially in the higher part of the water column, while magnitudes in the boundary layer are relatively small. Fluid from the inner surf zone is transported offshore by the undertow and pushed up near the shoreward face of the bar, thus largely feeding the onshore mass transport above trough level. As a result a large recirculation cell located just above the trough of the bar is generated where currents and turbulent velocity fluctuations are strong
Original languageEnglish
Number of pages10
Publication statusPublished - 22 May 2018
Event7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science 2018 - Universidad de Cantabria, Santander, Spain
Duration: 22 May 201826 May 2018
Conference number: 7
http://coastlab2018.com/

Conference

Conference7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science 2018
Abbreviated titleCoastlab 2018
CountrySpain
CitySantander
Period22/05/1826/05/18
Internet address

Fingerprint Dive into the research topics of 'Hydrodynamics under large-scale waves breaking over a barred beach'. Together they form a unique fingerprint.

  • Cite this

    Scandura, P., van der A, D. A., van der Zanden, J., Petrotta, C., Faraci, C., Cooper, J., ... Li, M. (2018). Hydrodynamics under large-scale waves breaking over a barred beach. Paper presented at 7th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science 2018, Santander, Spain.