Observations of barrier island length explained using an exploratory morphodynamic model

Pieter C. Roos, Henk M. Schuttelaars, Ronald L. Brouwer

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Abstract

Barrier coasts display a chain of islands, separated by tidal inlets that connect a back-barrier basin to a sea or ocean. Observations show that barrier island length generally decreases for increasing tidal range and increasing basin area. However, this has neither been reproduced in model studies nor explained from the underlying physics. This is the aim of our study. Here we simulate barrier coast dynamics by combining a widely used empirical relationship for inlet dynamics with a process-based model of the tidal hydrodynamics. Our model results show stable inlet systems with more than one inlet open that support the observed qualitative relationships and fit in existing barrier coast classifications. To explain this, we identify a competition between a destabilizing mechanism (bottom friction in inlets, tending to reduce the number of open inlets) and a stabilizing one (spatially varying pressure gradients over the inlets, tending to keep the inlets open).
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)4338-4343
JournalGeophysical research letters
Volume40
Issue number16
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 20 Aug 2013

Fingerprint

barrier island
morphodynamics
coasts
coast
tidal inlet
bottom friction
tidal range
pressure gradient
basin
physics
hydrodynamics
pressure gradients
ocean
oceans
friction

Keywords

  • IR-90798
  • METIS-297275

Cite this

Roos, Pieter C. ; Schuttelaars, Henk M. ; Brouwer, Ronald L. / Observations of barrier island length explained using an exploratory morphodynamic model. In: Geophysical research letters. 2013 ; Vol. 40, No. 16. pp. 4338-4343.
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Observations of barrier island length explained using an exploratory morphodynamic model. / Roos, Pieter C.; Schuttelaars, Henk M.; Brouwer, Ronald L.

In: Geophysical research letters, Vol. 40, No. 16, 20.08.2013, p. 4338-4343.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleAcademicpeer-review

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AB - Barrier coasts display a chain of islands, separated by tidal inlets that connect a back-barrier basin to a sea or ocean. Observations show that barrier island length generally decreases for increasing tidal range and increasing basin area. However, this has neither been reproduced in model studies nor explained from the underlying physics. This is the aim of our study. Here we simulate barrier coast dynamics by combining a widely used empirical relationship for inlet dynamics with a process-based model of the tidal hydrodynamics. Our model results show stable inlet systems with more than one inlet open that support the observed qualitative relationships and fit in existing barrier coast classifications. To explain this, we identify a competition between a destabilizing mechanism (bottom friction in inlets, tending to reduce the number of open inlets) and a stabilizing one (spatially varying pressure gradients over the inlets, tending to keep the inlets open).

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