One-dimensional modelling of individual breaking waves

K. M. Wijnberg*, L. C. van Rijn

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaperAcademicpeer-review


A probabilistic model (WAVIS-model) was developed to describe the propagation and transformation of individual waves (wave by wave approach). The individual waves shoal until an empirical criterion for breaking is satisfied. Wave height decay after breaking is modelled by using an energy dissipation method. Wave-induced set-up and set-down and breaking-associated longshore currents are also modelled. Field data were used to calibrate and verify the model. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave breaking coefficient (as a function of local wave steepness and bottom Four tests carried out in the large Delta flume of Delft Hydraulics were considered. Generally, the measured H1/3-wave heights are reasonably well represented by the model in all zones from deep water to the shallow surf zone. In addition, various model input parameters were varied to study the sensitivity of the output parameters wave height and water level set-up to inaccurate or simplified representations of the input conditions. This analysis showed that a more accurate representation of the input conditions may help to improve the model output. However, most improvement seems to be gained by increasing the process knowledge of the behaviour of waves after initiation of breaking on a breaker bar.

Original languageEnglish
Number of pages14
Publication statusPublished - 1995
Externally publishedYes
EventInternational Conference on Coastal Research in Terms of Large Scale Experiments 1995 - Gdansk, Poland
Duration: 4 Sep 19958 Sep 1995


ConferenceInternational Conference on Coastal Research in Terms of Large Scale Experiments 1995


Dive into the research topics of 'One-dimensional modelling of individual breaking waves'. Together they form a unique fingerprint.

Cite this