Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution

Onno Bokhove, Avraham/Bram van der Horn, A.J. van der Horn, Roger M. van der Meer, Elena Gagarina, W. Zweers, Anthony Richard Thornton

Research output: Book/ReportReportProfessional

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Abstract

Wave action, particularly during storms, drives the evo lution of beaches. Beach evolution by non-linear break ing waves is poorly understood due to its three-dimensional character, the range of scales involved, and our limited understanding of particle-wave interactions. We show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw‿ laboratory experiment can be designed that creates beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-two-dimensional setting. Our thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics: all dynamics become clearly visible and measurable. We show that beaches can be created in tens of minutes by several types of breaking waves, with about one-second periods. Quasi-steady beach morphologies emerge as function of initial water depth, at-rest bed level and wave-maker frequency. These are classified mathematically and lead to beaches, berms and sand bars.
Original languageUndefined
Place of PublicationEnschede
PublisherUniversity of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics
Number of pages5
Publication statusPublished - Feb 2013

Publication series

NameMemorandum
PublisherDepartment of Applied Mathematics, University of Twente
No.2004
ISSN (Print)1874-4850
ISSN (Electronic)1874-4850

Keywords

  • IR-84385
  • METIS-296293
  • EWI-23056
  • Water waves
  • Granular Flows
  • Geophysical fluid dynamics
  • Coastal engineering

Cite this

Bokhove, O., van der Horn, AB., van der Horn, A. J., van der Meer, R. M., Gagarina, E., Zweers, W., & Thornton, A. R. (2013). Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution. (Memorandum; No. 2004). Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics.
Bokhove, Onno ; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram ; van der Horn, A.J. ; van der Meer, Roger M. ; Gagarina, Elena ; Zweers, W. ; Thornton, Anthony Richard. / Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution. Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2013. 5 p. (Memorandum; 2004).
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keywords = "IR-84385, METIS-296293, EWI-23056, Water waves, Granular Flows, Geophysical fluid dynamics, Coastal engineering",
author = "Onno Bokhove and {van der Horn}, Avraham/Bram and {van der Horn}, A.J. and {van der Meer}, {Roger M.} and Elena Gagarina and W. Zweers and Thornton, {Anthony Richard}",
year = "2013",
month = "2",
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series = "Memorandum",
publisher = "University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics",
number = "2004",

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Bokhove, O, van der Horn, AB, van der Horn, AJ, van der Meer, RM, Gagarina, E, Zweers, W & Thornton, AR 2013, Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution. Memorandum, no. 2004, University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, Enschede.

Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution. / Bokhove, Onno; van der Horn, Avraham/Bram; van der Horn, A.J.; van der Meer, Roger M.; Gagarina, Elena; Zweers, W.; Thornton, Anthony Richard.

Enschede : University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2013. 5 p. (Memorandum; No. 2004).

Research output: Book/ReportReportProfessional

TY - BOOK

T1 - Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution

AU - Bokhove, Onno

AU - van der Horn, Avraham/Bram

AU - van der Horn, A.J.

AU - van der Meer, Roger M.

AU - Gagarina, Elena

AU - Zweers, W.

AU - Thornton, Anthony Richard

PY - 2013/2

Y1 - 2013/2

N2 - Wave action, particularly during storms, drives the evo lution of beaches. Beach evolution by non-linear break ing waves is poorly understood due to its three-dimensional character, the range of scales involved, and our limited understanding of particle-wave interactions. We show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw‿ laboratory experiment can be designed that creates beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-two-dimensional setting. Our thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics: all dynamics become clearly visible and measurable. We show that beaches can be created in tens of minutes by several types of breaking waves, with about one-second periods. Quasi-steady beach morphologies emerge as function of initial water depth, at-rest bed level and wave-maker frequency. These are classified mathematically and lead to beaches, berms and sand bars.

AB - Wave action, particularly during storms, drives the evo lution of beaches. Beach evolution by non-linear break ing waves is poorly understood due to its three-dimensional character, the range of scales involved, and our limited understanding of particle-wave interactions. We show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw‿ laboratory experiment can be designed that creates beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-two-dimensional setting. Our thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics: all dynamics become clearly visible and measurable. We show that beaches can be created in tens of minutes by several types of breaking waves, with about one-second periods. Quasi-steady beach morphologies emerge as function of initial water depth, at-rest bed level and wave-maker frequency. These are classified mathematically and lead to beaches, berms and sand bars.

KW - IR-84385

KW - METIS-296293

KW - EWI-23056

KW - Water waves

KW - Granular Flows

KW - Geophysical fluid dynamics

KW - Coastal engineering

M3 - Report

T3 - Memorandum

BT - Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution

PB - University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics

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ER -

Bokhove O, van der Horn AB, van der Horn AJ, van der Meer RM, Gagarina E, Zweers W et al. Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution. Enschede: University of Twente, Department of Applied Mathematics, 2013. 5 p. (Memorandum; 2004).