@book{f588e59fc94e4d3c98e33d9f6609af38,
title = "Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution",
abstract = "Wave action, particularly during storms, drives the evo lution of beaches. Beach evolution by non-linear break ing waves is poorly understood due to its three-dimensional character, the range of scales involved, and our limited understanding of particle-wave interactions. We show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw‿ laboratory experiment can be designed that creates beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-two-dimensional setting. Our thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics: all dynamics become clearly visible and measurable. We show that beaches can be created in tens of minutes by several types of breaking waves, with about one-second periods. Quasi-steady beach morphologies emerge as function of initial water depth, at-rest bed level and wave-maker frequency. These are classified mathematically and lead to beaches, berms and sand bars.",
keywords = "Water waves, Granular Flows, Geophysical fluid dynamics, Coastal engineering",
author = "O. Bokhove and \{van der Horn\}, A.J. and \{van der Meer\}, D. and E. Gagarina and W. Zweers and A.R. Thornton",
year = "2013",
month = feb,
language = "English",
series = "Memorandum",
publisher = "University of Twente",
number = "2004",
address = "Netherlands",
}