Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities

Francesca Ribas, Albert Falques, Nathaniel Plant, Suzanne Hulscher

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contributionAcademicpeer-review

6 Citations (Scopus)
122 Downloads (Pure)


The simple cross-shore sediment transport model put forward by Plant et al. is used to predict equilibrium beach profiles. The stability of such profiles with respect to alongshore uniform perturbations is also analyzed. Preliminary results indicate the growth of an unstable mode with a nice resemblance to observed break point bars. Although the mechanism was already suggested by previous empirical and qualitative studies, the present contribution provides a promissing quantitative model to explain the formation and migration of such bars.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationCoastal Dynamics '01
Subtitle of host publicationProceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics
EditorsHans Hanson, Magnus Larson
PublisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers
Number of pages10
ISBN (Print)9780784405666
Publication statusPublished - 11 Jun 2001
Event4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001 - Lund, Sweden
Duration: 11 Jun 200115 Jun 2001


Conference4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001
Abbreviated titleCoastal Dynamics 2001


  • METIS-125188
  • IR-41914


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