Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities

Francesca Ribas; Albert Falques; Nathaniel Plant; Suzanne Hulscher

doi:10.1061/40566(260)109

Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities

Francesca Ribas, Albert Falques, Nathaniel Plant, Suzanne Hulscher

Faculty of Engineering Technology

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Conference contribution › Academic › peer-review

7 Citations (Scopus)

375 Downloads (Pure)

Abstract

The simple cross-shore sediment transport model put forward by Plant et al. is used to predict equilibrium beach profiles. The stability of such profiles with respect to alongshore uniform perturbations is also analyzed. Preliminary results indicate the growth of an unstable mode with a nice resemblance to observed break point bars. Although the mechanism was already suggested by previous empirical and qualitative studies, the present contribution provides a promissing quantitative model to explain the formation and migration of such bars.

Original language	English
Title of host publication	Coastal Dynamics '01
Subtitle of host publication	Proceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics
Editors	Hans Hanson, Magnus Larson
Publisher	American Society of Civil Engineers
Pages	1068-1077
Number of pages	10
ISBN (Print)	9780784405666
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1061/40566(260)109
Publication status	Published - 11 Jun 2001
Event	4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001 - Lund, Sweden Duration: 11 Jun 2001 → 15 Jun 2001

Conference

Conference	4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001
Abbreviated title	Coastal Dynamics 2001
Country/Territory	Sweden
City	Lund
Period	11/06/01 → 15/06/01

Keywords

METIS-125188
IR-41914

Access to Document

10.1061/40566(260)109

Ribas2001self-organizationFinal published version, 511 KB

Cite this

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title = "Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities",

abstract = "The simple cross-shore sediment transport model put forward by Plant et al. is used to predict equilibrium beach profiles. The stability of such profiles with respect to alongshore uniform perturbations is also analyzed. Preliminary results indicate the growth of an unstable mode with a nice resemblance to observed break point bars. Although the mechanism was already suggested by previous empirical and qualitative studies, the present contribution provides a promissing quantitative model to explain the formation and migration of such bars.",

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author = "Francesca Ribas and Albert Falques and Nathaniel Plant and Suzanne Hulscher",

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editor = "Hans Hanson and Magnus Larson",

booktitle = "Coastal Dynamics '01",

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note = "4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001, Coastal Dynamics 2001 ; Conference date: 11-06-2001 Through 15-06-2001",

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Ribas, F, Falques, A, Plant, N & Hulscher, S 2001, Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities. in H Hanson & M Larson (eds), Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics. American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1068-1077, 4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001, Lund, Sweden, 11/06/01. https://doi.org/10.1061/40566(260)109

Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities. / Ribas, Francesca; Falques, Albert; Plant, Nathaniel et al.
Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics. ed. / Hans Hanson; Magnus Larson. American Society of Civil Engineers, 2001. p. 1068-1077.

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Conference contribution › Academic › peer-review

TY - GEN

T1 - Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities

AU - Ribas, Francesca

AU - Falques, Albert

AU - Plant, Nathaniel

AU - Hulscher, Suzanne

PY - 2001/6/11

Y1 - 2001/6/11

N2 - The simple cross-shore sediment transport model put forward by Plant et al. is used to predict equilibrium beach profiles. The stability of such profiles with respect to alongshore uniform perturbations is also analyzed. Preliminary results indicate the growth of an unstable mode with a nice resemblance to observed break point bars. Although the mechanism was already suggested by previous empirical and qualitative studies, the present contribution provides a promissing quantitative model to explain the formation and migration of such bars.

AB - The simple cross-shore sediment transport model put forward by Plant et al. is used to predict equilibrium beach profiles. The stability of such profiles with respect to alongshore uniform perturbations is also analyzed. Preliminary results indicate the growth of an unstable mode with a nice resemblance to observed break point bars. Although the mechanism was already suggested by previous empirical and qualitative studies, the present contribution provides a promissing quantitative model to explain the formation and migration of such bars.

KW - METIS-125188

KW - IR-41914

U2 - 10.1061/40566(260)109

DO - 10.1061/40566(260)109

M3 - Conference contribution

SN - 9780784405666

SP - 1068

EP - 1077

BT - Coastal Dynamics '01

A2 - Hanson, Hans

A2 - Larson, Magnus

PB - American Society of Civil Engineers

T2 - 4th ASCE Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2001

Y2 - 11 June 2001 through 15 June 2001

ER -

Self-organization in surf zone morphodynamics: alongshore uniform instabilities

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