Vertical dependences in swash-zone flows and sand transport

This thesis addresses the swash-zone, which is the part of the beach where waves run up and down the beach. By using detailed computational fluid dynamics, this thesis shows that the vertical distribution of sediment and velocity matters a lot to predict the correct sand transport in the swash zone. Furthermore, laboratory experiments conducted in a large wave flume show that pressure gradients in the bed, which are induced by the swash motion, can possibly be modelled using a one-parameter analytical model. This work demonstrates the use of detailed fluid dynamics simulations and large scale flume experiments to increase our understanding of the complex processes governing the morphodynamics of the swash zone.